Between each layup the frame must be sanded so the fibers on the next layers sit flat/straight and for proper mechanical adhesion of the next layer. If the next layup is performed before the resin in the previous layer has fully cured, and the surface finish is sufficiently rough, and the surface is smooth enough for the fibers to sit flat on the next layup... then no sanding is required.
That hasn't happened for me yet. So sand I must, and much sanding there is.
When I first started using the polyester elastic banding, one of the benefits which excited me was the surface finish remaining after pulling it off post-cure. It was rough and ready for another layup without sanding.
What I've found is that the surface still requires a good deal of sanding because of the geometric inconsistencies needing to be smoothed out for the next layer (wrinkles, buckling, poor wrapping), so the benefit of a rough surface finish became moot.
But here is the frame with all the wrinkles sanded out and ready for more carbon:
I did it mostly with this handheld belt sander... also called a belt file:
I've become a fan of safety GOGGLES over safety GLASSES. The unobstructed view is well worth the expense. However you do need to situate them properly when working with a dust mask as it will cause fog regardless of whether they have a "fog proof coating". Also time will tell if they hold up. Scratch a $2 pair of glasses: chuck them. Scratch a $10 set of goggles... mmmm maybe not?
Dust mask for filtering the particulate from my lungs. Thank you:
Work gloves, HIGHLY recommended. Resin infused frayed bits of fabric are poking off the frame after cure [sharp and hard]. And even simple light handling of the frame will jam them into your skin.
That hasn't happened for me yet. So sand I must, and much sanding there is.
When I first started using the polyester elastic banding, one of the benefits which excited me was the surface finish remaining after pulling it off post-cure. It was rough and ready for another layup without sanding.
What I've found is that the surface still requires a good deal of sanding because of the geometric inconsistencies needing to be smoothed out for the next layer (wrinkles, buckling, poor wrapping), so the benefit of a rough surface finish became moot.
But here is the frame with all the wrinkles sanded out and ready for more carbon:
I did it mostly with this handheld belt sander... also called a belt file:
Maybe $30 at Harbor Freight? Perfect for sanding a bicycle frame. Godsend too... this has saved me hours and hours of manual sanding.
Foam sanding blocks for the unobstructed smooth surfaces:
And strips of sandpaper or emory cloth for pulling back and forth in the crooks and crevices:
I've become a fan of safety GOGGLES over safety GLASSES. The unobstructed view is well worth the expense. However you do need to situate them properly when working with a dust mask as it will cause fog regardless of whether they have a "fog proof coating". Also time will tell if they hold up. Scratch a $2 pair of glasses: chuck them. Scratch a $10 set of goggles... mmmm maybe not?
Dust mask for filtering the particulate from my lungs. Thank you:
Work gloves, HIGHLY recommended. Resin infused frayed bits of fabric are poking off the frame after cure [sharp and hard]. And even simple light handling of the frame will jam them into your skin.
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